WILD VINES
Farming practices at Quinta Vila Rachel
At Quinta Vila Rachel, we strive to produce grapes as wild as possible, albeit in a controlled manner. We are well aware that the vine, in its natural environment, doesn't grow in neatly aligned rows like conventional vineyards. Instead, the vine is a climbing liana that uses other trees to ascend and entwine. Since this method is impractical for grape production, systems of row planting began to develop. Despite this, we insist that our grapes are cultivated in an environment as close as possible to the wild vine.
Our first rule is to allow spontaneous vegetation to grow freely. This unbridled growth of vegetation creates a biodiversity-rich environment, attracting a vast array of animals and microbes. These contribute to establishing a strong and complex food chain, enriching the soil to produce the highest quality grapes possible. (1) (2) The second rule is never to plow the soil, as this would destabilize and destroy the microbial community that took years to establish. (3)
The only vegetation control we exercise is around newly planted vine stems, as they shouldn't face competition during their initial growth phase. We also control vegetation in the inter-row spaces only in late spring/early summer when preparing the ground for grape harvesting. During spring, spontaneous vegetation plays a crucial role in shaping grape berries, and throughout the year, it helps protect and sustain the soil where the vines thrive.
When envisioning grapes for winemaking, we aim for clusters with small and concentrated berries. These berries contain the best phenolic compounds responsible for the aromas and flavors of wines. (4) Naturally, we are referring to clusters that have had optimal sun exposure, as a cluster developed in the shade will also have small berries due to the lack of sunlight, but it won't contain the ideal amount of phenolic compounds. (5) Hence, grapevines near adulthood are allowed to grow grass, creating a nutrient competition environment. This competition prompts the vine to adapt, producing fewer grape clusters but with better quality. When producing grapes for wine, quantity will always be the enemy of quality. (6)
Encouraging the growth of spontaneous vegetation brings various benefits to the vineyard:
1. A significant increase in biodiversity, attracting beneficial microbes, insects, and birds that help control potential vine pests.
2. Protection of grapes against Downy Mildew. This fungus resides in the soil, and if the soil is completely devoid of vegetation, spring rains will splash the fungus onto the vines. In contrast, if the soil is protected by vegetation, the likelihood of the fungus reaching the vines is reduced.
3. Protection of the soil against erosion from winds and rains, crucial in regions like Douro, known for its extensive terraces and slopes. Vegetation's extensive root network helps anchor the surrounding structure, creating cohesive soil.
Regarding biodiversity, to make our vineyards as wild as possible, we fill the borders with various tree species, such as Olive trees, Almond trees, Apple trees, Pear trees, Strawberry trees, among others. We also avoid monoculture production, preferring to plant vines in an old-fashioned way, where grape varieties are mixed, both white and red. This helps protect ancient genetic varieties that are at risk of extinction.
Today, the wine industry has started producing clones of only a few varieties, leading to vineyards with identical genetic vines. This poses a risk to the biodiversity that sets us apart from other countries. To combat this, we make sure not to plant new cloned vines. Instead, we source seeds from old vines to plant new ones, saving the genetic heritage of Douro's grapevines.
Another crucial condition in our vineyards is the absence of irrigation. To express the wild nature of our vineyard, we use only what nature provides in a wild way. This is the ultimate demonstration of a place's expression. Scientifically, less irrigation is known to produce wines that are more fruity and have fewer vegetal aromas. (4)
It's important to note that along the vine rows, we gradually cover the soil with a biomass or mulching layer, protecting and fertilizing the soil through decomposition.
The issue of maintaining the vineyard also involves two diseases, Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew, caused by fungi. Even in organic farming, it is legal to use copper and sulfur-based products to prevent these diseases. However, these products, besides accumulating in the soil, attack all microbial populations, whether good or bad, including native yeasts that later ferment the grapes in the winery to produce wine. Therefore, our intention is to increasingly reduce the use of these phytosanitary products, potentially not using them at all depending on the climatic conditions of the year.
by
Tiago Cartageno
Owner of Quinta Vila Rachel
(1) https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308521X19301933
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5420814/
(3) https://books.google.com.ar/books?id=wrBpDQAAQBAJ&pg=PA12&lpg=PA12&dq=research+spontaneous+vegetation+vineyard&source=bl&ots=Kn_jH8fDRl&sig=ACfU3U0IY_PhJFRHDBvCQoLMXDbMOVfApA&hl=pt-PT&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjSs-b2oIjnAhU9ILkGHbdPC0gQ6AEwEXoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=research spontaneous vegetation vineyard&f=false
(4) https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/43be/86cf3302a3f5eb3443055877bdfc7d9a521b.pdf